Belgium: Tour of the Chimay brewery

Photos from the first-ever open brewery days at Chimay.

Last week we toured the Chimay brewery at the Notre-Dame de Scourmont Abbey in southern Belgium. This was the first year the Trappist brewery was open to the public. Honestly, not my favorite of tours, but what an opportunity have one of the first looks inside.

A limited number of tours were given; they were free and bookable online (only on the French and Dutch versions of the Chimay web site). I can’t say it provided any great insight into monastic life or brewing or really anything because, well, the tour was conducted in French. My high school French doesn’t take me far beyond “Parlez-vous anglais?”, but it’s a brewery tour. What can they say that we don’t already know?

I had hoped to get to peek into the abbey, maybe see some monks like at La Trappe, at least visit the bottling line. Nope. The tour concluded with Chimay cheese and Spéciale Cent Cinquante. We received a 150-year-anniversary collectors glass as a souvenir of the visit and made our way to the restaurant down the street where they serve Chimay Dorée. The beer is good but the service is painfully slow (painfully slow by European standards and that means s l o w).

I did see a monk later…in the Carrefour parking lot.

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From Chimay Brewery. Shot August 31, 2012 at the Notre-Dame de Scourmont Abbey in Chimay, Belgium

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Belgium: Bockor brewery tour

Bockor was the second brewery we visited on Rondje Roodbruin (after Rodenbach). We did the abbreviated version of the tour—skipping the coolship. To get there you had to climb a narrow set of stairs with a tight stream of up and down traffic. Thank goodness most Europeans are thin (positively skinny by American standards). We walked up three floors before we decided it wasn’t worth it. We’ve seen a coolship before. Frankly, a stainless open-fermentation tank isn’t that interesting when it’s empty. So we made our way back down to the best part of any brewery tour—the samples!

Check out my mom drinking her beer below. She sure has come a long way from this (she’ll kill me for posting that). Testament to the fact that, if you think you don’t like beer, you’re wrong. You just haven’t found the right beer yet.

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From Bockor Brewery. Shot April 22, 2012. Bellegem, Belgium

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Belgium: Rodenbach brewery tour

April 22 was the first edition of Rondje Roodbruin—open brewery days at Rodenbach, Bockor and Verhaeghe celebrating the Flemish reds. I have to say, I am so happy we went because the next one is not until April 27, 2014.

There was a free shuttle running between the breweries, free full-size samples and free, easy parking (we parked on the street by Rodenbach). If I had to criticize anything, it would be Verhaeghe. There was quite literally nothing to see there. Just a glass of Duchesse de Bourgogne to drink. But will I get on the free tour bus to go drink a free Duchesse? Yes, yes I will. Not complaining; just would have been nice if there were something more. (For the record, Omer and other beers were available on draft, and they did have glasses, bottles, etc available for sale.)

On to Rodenbach. This was the reason for coming. Mainly because I wanted to see the foeders (skip to the end of the pics below). They are massive and built by hand by in-house coopers. You can’t normally tour Rodenbach without being part of a large group so this was a real treat. (Allegedly, you can e-mail them and find out if there is an existing tour that you can join. I tried this last year; they never mailed back.)

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From Rodenbach Brewery. Shot April 22, 2012. Roeselare, Belgium

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Ireland: Guinness Storehouse

This was probably Nicholas’ favorite thing we did in Ireland. (He still has the building map and likes to point out how you go up thru it. He often sits on my lap and reads as I type. Recently I typed “I guess” which he insisted said “I Guinness.”)

Weird, I know, since he’s 3. But no surprise there. It was pretty freaking cool. The building is beautiful in and of itself (built 1902, first multi-storey steel-framed building in Britain). The view from a top, looking over St James’ Gate at the Gravity Bar, is worth the admission price alone. Then there’s the beer. I don’t care about the whole “craft beer revolution; Guinness is too corporate blah, blah, blah.” Guinness is what every small, independent brewery aspires to be. Going from the entrepreneurial days of Arthur Guinness to the global brand powerhouse it is today—there’s something quite admirable in that. I’ll always sit for a pint of Guinness. It’s not what I’m drinking as I type this, but that’s not really relevant is it?

Guinness Storehouse is the Disneyland of beer. Ingredients, the brewing process, history of the brewery, ancient equipment, advertising artifacts. Old mash tons, barrels, bottles, and the harp. It’s pretty hard not to like this place. Welcome:

The self-guided tour is interesting both to those unfamiliar with the brewing process (here’s your crash course) and those who experience it firsthand in our kitchen/backyard/basement. There are facts and quotes from Arthur Guinness throughout the place, but the one I like best was in the advertising section. Written by a doctor, it reads:

“I often prescribe Guinness and for the following reasons in chief. A bottle of Guinness put in front of say, a dispirited health-greedy convalescent has a wonderfully auto-suggestive cheer-producing effect. It looks potent and jolly and when consumed it acts as a stomachic and whip to the appetite. It makes the patient feel better and eat better and think cheerfully.”

Roger that. Guinness was also given to people who had just given blood and prescribed to nursing mothers and those recovering from illness. To think all we get today is a cookie, a pat on the back and antibiotics.

With your ticket you get one pint, redeemable either at the Gravity Bar or at the pour your own pint bar on the floor below. We chose the latter and are hereby officially certified to pour the perfect pint (at least that’s what the certificate says).

The only downside: the Gravity Bar, not a cash bar. You can only redeem your ticket for a free pint. Understandably, this keeps people cycling thru and keeps it from getting too packed on busy days, but I would have liked another pint up there. IMO, they’re sitting on a goldmine. If I was Guinness, I’d enable cash transactions or build a similar bar (cash only, no tickets). They’d make a killing.

There are also several restaurants inside, but we didn’t eat at any. Did pick up some recipe cards. Going to make this Guinness chocolate mousse or the truffles some time. Recipes are also on their web site.

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From Guinness. Shot October 27, 2011. Dublin, Ireland

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From Guinness Gravity Bar. Shot October 27, 2011. Dublin, Ireland

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Belgium: Tour of Hanssens Artisanaal


Hanssens Artisanaal: another stop on the Tour de Geuze. Hanssens is in Dworp, Belgium. They are a lambic blender—meaning they don’t brew lambic, they buy wort from those that do and create their own blend. They make the traditional gueuze and kriek, a strawberry (Oudbeitje), and cassis and raspberry, which are export only.

The tour was self-guided. (Sorry I haven’t bothered to translate any of the signs.) They had Schaerbeek Kriek and Experimental Cassis and Raspberry for sale that day (yea!).

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From Hanssens Artisanaal. Shot May 1, 2011. Dworp, Belgium

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Belgium: Tour of Oud Beersel


One of our stops on the Tour de Geuze. Oud Beersel is in Beersel (obviously) down the hill from 3 Fonteinen. Took the tour of the brewery which given was in Dutch. Then ate pork sandwiches that were marinated in gueuze and cooked on a spit. Check out the pig head. Nice.

Oud Beersel was founded by Henri Vandervelden in 1882. A little more on the history here on wikipedia. The building in their logo is the castle in Beersel.

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From Oud Beersel. Shot May 1, 2011. Beersel, Belgium

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Belgium: Cantillon brewery


Here are some pics Matt shot when we took the Cantillon tour (for the first time) last June. Best 5€ you will ever spend, even if you don’t like beer (and if you don’t, you just haven’t had the right beer yet). The self-guided tour is unlike anything else—and includes two samples (gueuze and either kreik or framboise lambic). Basically you get to wander thru the brewery. The smell in there is phenomenal. Open a bottle of gueuze—like that only better. If you’re there during brew season (Oct to April, when the wild yeast is alive in the air), you can watch the beer being made. We have yet to go on a brew day since it’s always Tues and Thurs.

I’m keywording pics in Lightroom. Attempting to get some of the old stuff moved into galleries and up here. Paris and London coming…hopefully before I lose motivation. A week somewhere = a lot of pics to sort thru. Maybe the easier stuff first.

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From Cantillon Brewery. Shot June 8, 2010. Brussels, Brewery

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