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Germany: Cochem Castle (Reichsburg Cochem)

Reichsburg Cochem, aka Cochem Castle, sits high above the village of Cochem. We visited during our week in Mosel.

The original castle at Cochem was believed to to build around the year 1000. It, along with most of the city of Cochem, was destroyed by the French in the 1600s. The castle remained in ruins until 1868 when it was purchased by the wealthy Ravené family. At that time, the trend among the elite was to rebuild an abandoned castle for use as a summer home. The reconstruction/renovations were done in Neo-Gothic style.

The Cochem Castle you see today was built in 1871-1877. It, like most of Germany’s Rhineland castles, is not medieval, not authentic, not really very old. Nonetheless, it’s still cool and totally worth the 5€ admission fee.

Cochem Castle is accessible only by a 40-ish minute guided tour. You’re allowed to photograph the interior (yea!). The downside: tours are conducted exclusively in German. Our guide did speak perfect English; she could have easily led an English tour. But tours are in German. They do have printed info sheets in English and a number of other languages—read and follow along. (Eventually, I will scan and link to the flyer…before it gets lost.)

Somehow you can drive up to the castle. We attempted many times—with the GPS trying to take us through racks of postcards along the pedestrian route—before giving up, parking and walking. It’s a hike up. There is a shuttle bus that leaves from the town. We didn’t do that; we walked. (Like I’ve said before, I’m cheaper than I am lazy.) Nothing real interesting on the hike up, but the views from the castle are spectacular.

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From Cochem Castle. Shot May 31, 2012 in Cochem, Germany

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Germany: Burg Eltz

Burg Eltz is the impressive combined residence of three families—the Rübenach, Rodendorf and Kempenich families. A sort of medieval duplex, if you will, in Münstermaifeld, Germany, not far from the Mosel River.

We took a side trip here on our week stay in Mosel.

Part of Burg Eltz dates from 1157, but the three houses that form the main body of castle were completed between 1472 and 1615. In the interior courtyard, you can better tell how the three houses are distinct in materials and architecture. Take a look at the floor plan on Wikipedia.

Bit of history: In 1268 the original 12th-century Eltz castle property was divided among three brothers (three heirs). The brothers changed their names from Eltz. Two derived their family name from their coat of arms (Rübenach and Kempenich), the other took his wife’s name when they married (Rodendorf). A house was built for each brother’s family around a communal courtyard, resulting in the fortress we see today.

Burg Eltz is unique in that it remains in it’s original condition. Interesting note: All but one of the 11-13th century castles along the Rhine were destroyed (mostly by the French) and rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style in the late 1800s. Burg Eltz survived this reno trend, not to mention two world wars, and has remained in the same family for 33 generations.

According to the guidebook, it’s a gentle downhill walk from the parking lot. No. No, it’s not. It’s a steep hike. There is a shuttle bus you can catch just beyond the parking lot that will take you most of the way. Being cheaper than I am lazy, we walked.

You are free to roam around the castle grounds and chapel. (The chapel is easy to miss; it’s up the flight of stairs on the right when heading to the treasury from the courtyard.) But the castle interior is only accessible by guided tour. It’s a quick 40 minutes.

You are not permitted take pictures inside. I don’t like this. Mostly because I find it difficult to listen to the guide, take in the surroundings and then, especially if you visit more than one castle like we did, remember what the heck you saw where. I do have the brochure, but pictures would help.

No one seems to care if you take pics in the treasury or the chapel. Everyone was doing it, so I did too. But don’t think you can elsewhere without anyone noticing. Watch your guide watching the people with cameras. Do a Google image search; see how many interior shots you see.

Another interesting note: One of the houses (Kempenich) is private and still used by the family today. Not as their primary residence—could you imagine living with all those tourists outside?

Parking is 1.50€; the castle and treasury is 8€. Totally worth the price of admission.

We didn’t, but you could easily spend a whole day here if you combined the castle with a hike down to the river below or in the surrounding forest. There are two busy on-site restaurants with surprisingly decent prices considering the captive audience.

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From Burg Eltz. Shot May 28, 2012 in Münstermaifeld, Germany

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Ireland: Dublin Castle

So Dublin Castle, not really a castle. What it is/was is the seat of government when the British ruled Ireland (until 1922). There was once a Danish Viking fortress here (in the 930s), Norman fortification (1170s) and later an English castle, but all that is left today are archeological relics and the Record Tower—the turret-like structure which dates to 1228 (from the English castle). Most of the rest of the complex is from the 18th century.

The complex has served a multitude of functions: royal residence, army barracks, parliament, courts (note the statue of Justice; she is not blind). It’s survived fire and civil war. Today Dublin Castle is primarily a tourist attraction, but still used as a conference center, for the presidential inauguration and other official functions, state dinners and that sort of thing.

There’s this weird brightly colored section constructed to look like a castle, a rebuilt part of what is/was the State Apartments. Not sure what to make of it; it just looks odd. There is a long, dry, 17-chapter history on the castle web site. But the best way to get a feel for the place is with this interactive map (mouse over the yellow dots).

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From Dublin Castle. Shot October 30, 2011. Dublin, Ireland

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Ireland: Malahide Castle

Malahide Castle is outside Dublin (in Malahide), a short train ride away. Up until 1973 it was a private residence. The same family lived there from 1185, and it’s purportedly haunted. Sounds cool and it gets good reviews, but have to say: not impressed. On the tour you go thru a few rooms in the castle. They are full of great art and antiques, but it’s only a few rooms. Very clear that there’s a lot of the castle that you’re not seeing, and it’s one of those walk in the room and the description plays over a speaker. Audioguide without the headset. And not a lot of history provided.

I was expecting more. Or maybe after seeing Versailles, it just takes a lot to impress me. For the record, Malahide is now closed undergoing a 12M€ renovation. It will probably be 12 million times better when they are done. If I find myself in Dublin again, after it reopens, I might go, but it wouldn’t be very high my to-do list. You can read more about the renovations here.

As it was when we were there, not worth the price of admission. We had a much better time at the playground on the castle grounds. And that was free.

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From Malahide Castle. Shot October 26, 2011. Dublin, Ireland

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